Vervangen oliefilter NT650V
How to supply new juice of lubrication. I give my Duv new oil & filter
every 10000 km. Here's the procedure, easy and straight forward.
There's
an eccellent description of how to change oil in the owners manual, and i
suggest you also confer to that. Anyway here's the oilchange in pictures:
Buy oil and filter
To change the oil and filter you need 2.6 litres of oil and a new oilfilter. I normally use a third party filter: Biltema 50-0105,
at 40NOK ( compared to the OEM 140 NOK Honda filter ).
Oil 2.6 litres
Motul 5100 SAE10w40 semisynthetic oil is what i go for.
It is not such a good idea to use cheap car engine 4 stroke oil, because the nt650v engine uses the same oil for engine and gearbox
(including the clutch ), whilst a car normally uses two different compounds. In my Transalp which
had basically the same engine, i used Spectro oil for around 100,000 km and
then switched to Motul. The reason was that my parts pusher stopped the
Spectro series due to delivery problems, and went for the Motul line instead.
I can only recommend what i have tried, and both Spectro and Motul are up to the task.
Drain washer
A new aluminum drain washer, 14mm hole , is needed every
second time. This washer is the seal between the oil drain plug and the engie
block. When tightening the drain plug it gets squeezed, resulting in a perfect
leakproof fit.
Hot engine
Make sure the engine is hot before draining the oil. 10 -
15 minutes of riding should do the trick. I normally buy the oil & filter
and drain the engine as soon as i come home, before i get out of my riding
gear. If in doubt, let the engine idle (on the centerstand) until the radiator
fan cuts in. The reason for this is that hot oil gets thinner than cold, and
therby is able to leave the engine in a more orderly fashion. You want as
little as possible of the used oil left in the engine, when filling in the new.
Tools needed
17mm spanner, oilfilter tool and a funnel. Use the socket
end of the spanner. If you do not have a filter tool, you can ram a
screwdriver all the way though the old filter and use it to unscrew it. This
obviously destroys the old filter and you don't want to do this if you haven't
got a new filter at hand. Anyway there is no need to remove the old filter if
you havn't got a new one. Its only for the last six months that i have been
the owner of a filter tool. Earlier i used the screwdriver puncturing method.
Here's the oilplug and filter
Now it's time to start draining.
Remove the key from the ignition, cause you don't want to start the engine
whithout any oil. Both filter and plug comes off by twisting counter
clockwise. Start with the oilplug. Take care, the oil is hot. Let the bike
rest on the centerstand for a while, then on the sidestand. I normally drain
for 15 minutes, while i get out of my riding gear, make coffee and smoke a cig.
When completely dry
Reinstall the oilplug (insert) and washer and
tighten with 34 Nm toque. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten until you
feel the plug digging into the aluminum washer. (It starts sort of sliding
about 1/6 to 1/4 turn from fingertight - or maybe a tiny bit more if i
remember correct) Do not overtighten.
Prime the filter
Take a mentally note on the level of oil in the
container. Prior to installing the new filter, prime it with fresh oil. This
helps prevent air pockets in the oil system, and ensures that the engine head
gets oil as soon an possible when you finally start up again.
Prime the O-ring
To make the new filter seat in properly, give the dry
O-ring a good stroke of fresh juicy oil, prefferably enough to wet the
underside of it. The oil on the O-ring will permit you to hand tighten the
filter in place, and act as as sealant compound. Install the filter by hand.
Wipe the oil off the filter and your hands. With clean hands (or a clean rag
between your greasy hand and the filter) - tighten as hard as you can. No
tools needed here unless you are manually challenged. Presto - the new filter
is ready.
Filling her up
Remove the oil filler cap w/dipstick on the right side
of the engine. If you don't have a proper funnel, you probably have to remove
the right fairing skirt if you have them. Place the bike on it's sidestand.
Fill up with 2.6 litres - including the amount that went into the filter. (
Remember the mental note you made earlier. )
Idle for 2-3 min
Remove the funnel and reinstall the filler cap. Put
the bike back on the centerstand. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3
minutes. Stop and let the oil settle for 5 minutes. Open the filler cap, wipe,
dip & inspect the oil level. Dipping does not involve screwing, just dip.
When it all looks OK reinstall the filler cap and leave it there until next
time you change the oil. Unless you are a notorious highway/autobahn woman/man
- meaning unless you regularly do extended top speed riding - the Duv engine
should not be using any oil.
Dress up and go for test ride
Run the egine warm and check for any leaks. Voila!